Designer Conversations: Jitrois
Jitrois: Stretch Leather and the Construction of a Second Skin
Founded in Paris by Jean-Claude Jitrois, the house of Jitrois built its identity through an unconventional material specialization: stretch leather. We spoke with Jean-Claude himself, alongside newly appointed creative directors Tristan Van Bruwaene and Jay Wilson, about French leather craftsmanship, design process and the importance of remaining inspired by the clients during the Fall/Winter 2026–2027 presentation at Paris Fashion Week.
Developed during the early years of the brand, the stretch leather allowed garments to function with the flexibility of a textile while retaining the structural qualities traditionally associated with leather construction. Within the brand’s framework, this material gradually became central to the brand’s design language.
“From the beginning of the conception of the brand, when Jean-Claude founded Jitrois and then became the pioneer the world's leader in stretch leather, there was an agenda to empower people and for his products to become a second skin.”
This concept continues to guide the house’s approach to leather garments, positioning the material not only as surface but as a structural layer closely aligned with the body.
a. Material and Design Process
Design development often begins through direct interaction with material rather than a fixed sketch.
“We start on a mannequin, sometimes with paper... And we love to cut. We love to cut everything, a piece of leather, and put on a mannequin.”
This approach allows the studio to test proportion and movement while responding to the behavior of stretch leather. Paper prototypes, sketches, and draping coexist within the same development process.
Cutting and recomposition remain central to this approach.
b. Clients as Reference Points
This approach allows the team to test proportion and movement while responding to the behavior of stretch leather. Paper prototypes, sketches, and draping coexist within the same development process.
“The beauty is, our atelier it's very close to our boutique. And I think for us, you know, our very loyal clients that have helped sustain the growth of the brand throughout the years is often where a lot of the inspiration come from.”
According to creative directors, this relationship has shaped the evolution of the brand over several decades. Many garments are developed with a clear understanding of how they will be worn and in what context, including stage performances, television appearances, and public events.
c. Leather as "Armor"
Stretch leather plays a specific role within the Jitrois vocabulary, as it provides both a material structure and a psychological framework for the wearer. Its elasticity allows garments to remain closely fitted while maintaining structural tension, creating a feeling of an "armor".
“I'm gonna be very bold now and say that Jitrois does and has the best leather in the world. I think that the stretch that Jean-Claude pioneers and continues to be a founder of, is a material that gives people an armor. And with an armor anything is possible.”
d. Craft and Production
The house maintains a strong emphasis on French leather craftsmanship.
“What is most important for us is French craftsmanship. French leather, sourced in France and produced in France. Even in Paris, we can say...”
Production remains closely connected to artisanal methods rather than industrial scaling. According to Jean-Claude Jitrois, maintaining this structure is central to preserving the identity of the maison.
e. Archive References
When reflecting on the brand’s archive, one of the tree creative directors of Jitrois, Jay Wilson, states he frequently returns to silhouettes from the 1980s. Black leather remains one of the most persistent elements within the house’s visual code, continuing to inform contemporary designs.
“The 1980s for me. Honestly, the big shoulders, the power dressing — it never goes out of style.”
→ Watch the full conversation
→ Explore Jitrois
